Some paints give a much more washed out effect than others. In my prior miniature-painting post, I said that my collection of contrast paints lacked lighter blues and purples. Contrast paints use a range of different pigments in a different medium that are designed to separate out, with the darker pigment being drawn into the slower drying recesses as the liquid contracts. Was it all hype? If it’s a delicate area, put it on with a smaller brush. This post continues a saga I began in an earlier post on the hobby of painting miniature figures. Oct 17, 2017 - Welcome to From the Warp, your source for modeling and painting info in the Warhammer 40k universe. Using a spray can or airbrush with a bright color, usually white, you spray directly downward onto a dark-colored model. One thick coat means that. Add water, and it stops being contrast, and turns into a very expensive runny glaze. Interestingly, I find Contrast works better for me with a squirrel hair brush than the traditional sable, though both work just fine. I took a class with him at Gen Con. When followed up with transparent glazes or inks, you can speed paint through many miniatures. 5 minutes before applying the paints can save you hours of touching up later. Priming. On the flip side, the edges aren’t as effectively highlighted, because the darker grey isn’t as high a contrast in tone with the recesses. That means if you structure your painting from light paints to dark, being increasingly careful, you can really minimise any need to do any cleanup at all. Your email address will not be published. Applying too much – this normally comes because someones either trying to apply it like agrax with loads on the brush, or because they haven’t checked into how to apply contrast and have taken the “One thick coat” line used when discussing it literally. Pingback: Vindication of the Dragon at the Edge of Darkness – The Argothald Journal, Pingback: Contrast Paints and a Metal Dwarf – The Argothald Journal, Pingback: Contrast Paints, a Golden Dwarf, and Contrast Medium – The Argothald Journal. If you apply thin layers over the primer layer the paint that you put over the black primer will appear darker than the paint that you put over the white primer. New post: My Thoughts On Playing 8th Edition Warhammer 40k by, New post: Contrast Paints – Maximised! Painting 201: Zenithal Priming or how to shade & highlight like a boss by Powerfisted.com. Given this result, I knew I was going to run more tests using autumnal colors. Think of Retributor as a metallic Wraithbone, with warm metallic notes shining through. In fact, it’s what I did for the armies in Mysthea: As I went over in my previous mini post, conventional zenithal priming has an overall coat of black primer, an angled coat of light gray, and and overhead spray of white. In that post, I described how I managed to paint the minis in the game Mysthea to a satisfactory level. Zenithal highlighting when priming is to use the lighter color more on areas that would be exposed to the light, and more of the darker primer on shaded or recessed areas. In this video, Jay tries the New Contrast Paints over a zenithal priming. Absolutely amazing colours metal effects – using blues over silver for deep cool metallic blues is just fabulous, as are greens for classic chaos warrior effects. It makes it appear as though the model is being lit from a light source directly overhead of the model. It could be said that this is a much more realistic approach to highlighting a model. If you start with a grey primer (like halfords grey primer, or mechanicus grey), you get a fantastic muted effect that looks a lot closer to the current palette. This definitely doesn’t come across in the photos: The darker contrast paint colors have a sheen to them that makes the surfaces seem almost metallic; the Wyldwood mini looks like it was made of bronze. Perfect if you want to come closer to matching existing forces. I was content with the results I got. Well, for the contrast paints to flow properly, the primer has to be smooth. Don’t skip over this step and be very mindful of what you choose. Eric was the spokes painter for a short-lived company called Adiken and their Adikolor paint line. You may want to view the old site’s post instead. really takes this up a note to make it really pop. Interestingly, I find one thing many people miss with contrast paints is just slightly overpainting the edges of areas. ... Cover the parts of the model that will end up white in Apothecary White Contrast paint. Posted by 7 hours ago. However, I learned that when you plan to paint in warm or autumnal colors (e.g., brown, red, orange, yellow) it’s best if you’re painting over another warm color. Your email address will not be published. The tests I did with the red glaze were in anticipation of techniques I’d use to paint Volfyirion (in a later post I describe why I dropped this approach). With only one working eye and trembling fingers, I did not think I could improve my ability above what it currently is. Contrast simply doesn’t have metallics in the range, and though applying yellow for gold and grey for steel isn’t terrible if you’re in a rush, using the metallic paints to give that genuine sheen can be worth doing. If you don’t paint minis, the quick summary is that, for newcomers to the hobby, they can accomplish a single coat what would otherwise involve a basecoat+wash+drybrush. Contrast paints are a pain to clean up on your model, so you need pretty tidy brush work to get the most out of them. In that post, I described how I managed to paint the minis in the game Mystheato a satisfactory level. 1. But although wash-over-glaze is a perfectly valid technique, I wanted to see what I could do with just the Sundrop approach: wash-over-zenithal. Well, with all due respect to the designers at Tabula Games, the mini designers at Awaken Realms are more ambitious. To my pleasant surprise, the answer was no. Always try the colour out before using it in anger or you can be very disappointed. I have used Zenithal priming with some success, I think the 2 step rather than the 3 step process is fine as you have illustrated. Oh, and if you put a few areas of different primer on your contrast lids, then cover it with that contrast paints, you’ll know what it’ll look like. When done properly it will give you a head start on shading and highlighting your model. My thoughts on different primer combinations, from my own experiments and what I’ve seen others do on twitter: Pure white – really vibrant effects, but hard to get the smooth undercoat. Well, this is rather presumptuous of me, given the level of top end painters who have shown off what they can do with Contrast paints, be it Darren Latham’s amazing NMM golds or any of the amazing tutorials on the Warhammer Community site. Let’s be clear – you apply it as if you were applying a normal base coat, in general. In addition, you need to pick the right contrast paints. I mean, if you’re cash strapped or lazy you can get away with using 2 colors, but 3 gets best results. My final tip for application involved brushes. Zenithal Priming is priming your model with 3 colors instead of just 1. That doesn’t come to us naturally. If you don’t know about zenithal priming, I won’t go into it here, but look it up – its a fantastic technique. My accuracy stays far higher than doing base coats normally, as I get bored and slop it on when I don’t get that instant result. Now, I started painting in the 80s when white primers and vibrant colours and pageantry was the order of the day! It’s a simple method: zenithal prime a mini, apply a wash for contrast, and you’re done. Sloppy pooling – while it doesn’t go on like a wash in general, you do need to manage any signs of pooling by sucking excess paint back onto the brush, in exactly the same way you would with a wash.  And it dries faster than a wash, so you need to manage pooling faster. Do eyes with normal paints for coverage and control! I’ll decide on a figure-by-figure basis as the games arrive. I tested with more tan-zenithaled Dwarf Brewers. Mechanicus Grey/Halfords Grey – muted colours, and the highlights aren’t as crisp, but we’re right in the colour tone for standard painting over black undercoats now. Fourth …. Something you could probably achieve with the white and black Contrast paints. Well, it was worth it just to see how it would fair over straight zenithal priming. They each have a main goal in mind, I think, and are designed to be used out of the pot for that. Since I wrote that post, a new element entered the picture: I pre-ordered two more games with miniature figures: Tainted … It is designed to separate on the model. You can thin with contrast medium. Required fields are marked *. The last three paints listed above certainly satisfy that need. If you don’t keep the brush fresh, your accuracy will get hammered quickly. Superb! If you click on the Tainted Grail and Etherfields links, you’ll see how elaborate their minis are. And the end result: I'd also suggest taking some pictures of the figure after the zenithal priming to use as a reference once you start painting just in case you put the paint on too thick and need a reminder of where the light and shadows are in that specific area. Zenithal highlighting is another approach to highlighting a model that gives it a completely different look and feel. Well, I are one. While more nuanced, it’s roughly the equivalent of using a bright white primer, using vibrant layer paints, then putting a light coat of a sepia wash like Agrax Earthshade on it. With the way contrast pools in the recesses and runs away from edges, its easy to have gaps between colours. If you’d like to get an idea right now, check out this page. An initial nuln gloss wash or shining silver drybrush (or both!) To my eye, the mini on the right has the more vibrant color. They are a really good consistency straight out of the pot, and apply like a paint, rather than running everywhere like a wash or shade. #ParentPlayers – the 8th Meet-up, first in 2020! Has anyone tried zenithal priming with grey seer and wraithbone? I used glaze medium instead of water because I didn’t want to thin the Vallejo Air paint any further, since it was already thinned for airbrushing. You apply black, grey, and white primers in a way that creates a gradient effect adding depth and shading to your base coat. Sundrop, tan zenithal, and contrast paints, Contrast Paints, a Golden Dwarf, and Contrast Medium, Vindication of the Dragon at the Edge of Darkness – The Argothald Journal, Contrast Paints and a Metal Dwarf – The Argothald Journal, Contrast Paints, a Golden Dwarf, and Contrast Medium – The Argothald Journal, More miniature-painting goodness: Citadel shades and washes, zenithal primes, and Etherfields. This doesn’t mean I reject using washes over zenithal for my future Sundrop efforts. Do one arm and check it over before moving onto the next, for example, rather than trying to cover both arms and legs in the same colour before checking it. Next, the choice of colour will make a massive difference, and can deal with one of the constant criticisms of contrast paint I hear. An initial drybrush of wraithbone or Grey Seer depending on warm or cool notes will bring those highlights up really crisp while preserving the more muted vibrancy of the colours in general. But it isn’t that hard! How to Paint with Contrast Paints. All of the following examples are contrast paints over tan zenithal. A product made for n00bs? I knew I could Sundrop minis fairly quickly, not get bogged down in details, and get the gray off the table. It’s really what its designed to do on the models, so its no surprise. You can use it as a heavy wash over another colour with the translucent nature – but you apply it like a normal paint. You can wait for it to dry and apply a second coat. However, see my discussion of contrast medium below. #ParentPlayers – Resources for UK Wargamers with Primary School Kids at Home! Grey Seer – lovely vibrant colours again, but the cooler tone can leave flesh tones seeming a little more cadaverous, which is perfect for things like admech. -Start by priming the whole model with light grey (i mix stynylrez grey and white 35/65) -Do a Zenithal from the top and side with pure white. Plan your contrast paints around the metal going on, and you can often find that you can speed up a lot of your painting as if the metal parts are going to get overpainted carefully, you can slap the other colours on faster around the awkward bits. When I switched WordPress providers, many of the pictures did not import properly. I succumbed to peer pressure and tried a few to see how well they worked. Honestly, though I love contrast … you can really improve your minis with a few extra touches. Applying it like a runny shade, like Agrax – it doesn’t flow off the brush like a normal wash. The how told sold with the paints used the glazing technique. I find a size 2 brush with a decent point is working brilliantly for me generally, but I will happy use a smaller brush for smaller areas. With the contrast paints, even the newest painter should be able to get a nicely painted group of minis on the table without that mountain of stress. I chose this mix because I wanted the red to be translucent enough that it wouldn’t completely override the zenithal effect. I even make sure my brush is pretty dry every time I clean it off. Brilliant! Brilliant! You’ll apply black, grey, and white primers in a way that creates a gradient effect from the shadows to the upper most areas. I have a gaming store opening up near me that's going to run a Konflikt '47 escalation league geared towards helping beginners learn the game and they are running a deal on the starter sets and plastic kits. Wraithbone – awesome vibrant colours with a warm hint. This means that for the majority of the game, you are looking at the miniatures from above. Zenithal Contrast Paint. a really nice trick can be to use a contrast paint more than once for depth, combining it with dry brushing or edge highlighting with the primer colour first to exaggerate the depth of colour from the recesses to the edges. I can't imagine it'd be easy to get a copy of, but I figure I'd mention to be thorough. 3 comments. I’ll go over my efforts to paint Volfyirion in another mini-painting post. My Thoughts On Playing 8th Edition Warhammer 40k, Assembly and Painting – Composition in Practice, Lessons learned from the Salamanders Charity Army. -Then spray a thin coat of Gloss varnish, this step is optional but the Contrast paint flows a lot better with it, staining a lot less flat surface. I highly suggest you start with a white, off white, or light grey base coat. That means, first and foremost, your choice of primer makes a massive difference to the outcome. Apr 23, 2020 - “Here’s the tutorial for dark skin using Contrast! I’ll go over my efforts to paint Volfyirion in another mini-painting post. Contrast paints almost entirely rely on recess painting, and despite the marketing about “one thick coat” actually apply incredibly thinly, highlighting all the details on the model. Because the Contrast paints are transparent they are affected by the warmth of the primer underneath and they need a bright primer like white or these two, they will not work on a pure black primer. by. It may not be clear from the pictures, but the contrast paints’ colors are richer than those of the washes. Thinning with water – this is a major no no, and the contrast paints won’t flow right at all. I then applied a red glaze to a couple more to see effect of washes on top of the glaze. The basic method starts with priming the model black. The contrast paints + zenithal also look good for things like pouches and other random items on the model. Curious if I should buy both primers to give zenithal a try or if I should just prime in all wraithbone. The Trench was done with Basilicum Gray contrast paint diluted with Contrast medium about 50/50. Think of Leadbelcher as a metallic Grey Seer, with cold metallic notes shining through. After that, he settles for using contrast paints to Sundrop the minis, with some minor highlights on the larger ones (the mini on the left in the preview); that’s pretty much what I plan to do. 5000 Fir Farillecassion Eldar W/L/D 4th Ed Codex - 14/7/1 6th Ed Codex - 9/1/0 7th Ed Codex - 4/1/1 8th Ed Codex - 20/6/2 9th Ed - 2/1/0 hide. At the end of that post, I looked forward to painting the dragon Volfyirion and the miniatures in Icaion, both from Tabula Games. Third …. The color theorists are right! Contrast is designed to work over a light undercoat. If you are just using contrast paints, remember you won’t be filling that gap with a later wash! If you use a dark contrast paint, drybrush it with the primer, then go over it with a lighter colour, you can really get some brilliant effects like light green edges over shaded black models, an amazing effect on Drukhari, for example. The recesses into which the paint flowed are darker than with the wash, so the raised areas are highlighted more. Normally with paints we paint from the lowest parts of the model up to the highest as its a little easier in terms of brushwork and clean up. Straight white has very large flakes of pigment, so its very easy for this to happen with white paints in humid environments. The colour in the pot is way off! I see too many people using wash and shade brushes and complaining contrast isn’t great for details with mammoth brushes. Painting 201: Zenithal Priming, or how to shade & highlight like a BOSS. This can be amazingly effective, and can also combine colours really well. Enjoy. So, what was the point of using a contrast paint? Going back to Etherfields, I found a video of someone painting Etherfields miniatures. It worked quite nicely over the black and grey, but didn’t give enough contrast over the white; hence the need to dry brush and add a little wash. And that includes your mould lines, stubs from sprue cuts, and everything else. There are light blues that seem too light and washed out but work brilliantly for tau skin, and magos purple seems designed for Genestealer Cultist flesh tones, not a deep purple. This is, I believe, by design. If you slap dark contrast colours everywhere, you’ll need to repaint any overlaps with paint matching your undercoat, and that’s very time consuming, especially if you’ve gone an extra notch on your model by drybrushing or washing your undercoat first. This technique is nonetheless a great tool for quicker tabletop painting. Apply extra edge highlights to increase the colour contrast and make hard edges pop even more! I mean, if you’re cash strapped or lazy you can get away with using 2 colors, but 3 gets best results. I went with a black/grey/white zenithal prime using my airbrush. Shake the damn pots properly – contrast, more than almost any other paint, separates like mad. Zenithal Priming is a way to paint your miniatures based on how they are traditionally viewed. Contrast paints as recommended by GW go straight over their wraithbone primer for a slightly warm vibrant shade. The new Citadel contrast range of paints are a pleasure to work with, and are now my “go to” paints when dealing with any rank and file troops, you simply cannot bear an average of 5-10 minutes per figure and will result in many boxes of minis actually … Miniatures painted with glazes over zenithal priming have good contrast within each area, but can lack contrast between each of the areas. Paints being applied over primer all react a bit different. He had used spray primer to zenithal prime the figures. They’re supposed to be easy to use: just slop the paint over white primer and you’re done. From my perspective, there are two main areas you need to look at to get the most from contrast paints by themselves, and then you can also look at moving beyond contrast paints by adding a little something extra with other paint techniques after contrast too. and don’t have much use for them. Synopsis: The painter (who is far more experienced than I am) spent a long time painting one of the figures in detail (the mini on the right in the video’s preview image). If you run a big brush over an area quickly, you’ll end up with areas of primer visible in recesses that haven’t been touched by the brush. Your miniatures based on how they are traditionally viewed varnish with a squirrel hair brush the... All wraithbone I started painting in the recesses into which the paint over white primer you... It doesn ’ t be filling that gap with a metallic primer of. Transparent glazes or inks, you are looking at the miniatures from above the! 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Highlight like a normal base coat really improve your overall painting but you apply it like a BOSS the.. The hype surrounding Citadel contrast paints, apply a wash for contrast, and you ’ re done between. Runny glaze models painted with contrast paints are: how can you help yourself when applying contrast paints the using contrast paints with zenithal priming! Gray off the brush fresh, your accuracy will get hammered quickly contrast flesh tones can look a little out... In an earlier post on the right contrast paints really nice to work over a light source directly of... Know how that works ) using contrast paints with zenithal priming, many of the same approach with non-Dwarf non-Brewers painting:... Layering, etc. easy for this to happen with white paints in humid environments start! Will be loads more ways to add to models painted with contrast any. Straight over their wraithbone primer for a short-lived company called Adiken and their Adikolor paint.! 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